Victory Day - 9th May 2014

As mentioned in my previous post, Victory Day on 9th May of each year is a very special occasion in Russia and is also a public holiday.  While Moscow boasts a very grand military parade, Saint Petersburg also has its own parade and fireworks display.  Across the country people marked the 69th anniversary of the defeat of Nazi Germany, to which the Soviet Union paid a very high price: in the tens of millions.  This city alone lost over half a million civilians during the blockade between 8th September 1941 and 27th January 1944.  Most of those died from starvation, the bombing and disease.  The Red Army lost over a million soldiers defending the city.  Therefore, with such huge numbers of people killed, captured and missing, it is small wonder that this remains in the collective conscience of ordinary Russians today.

 

The huge human cost in lives during the Siege of Leningrad




Victory Day in the Hero City of Leningrad

Victory Day ribbon in the colours of the Order of St George

 

 



In the western world we celebrate V.E Day, but this does not really compare to the scale of the celebrations in modern Russia.  It is a big deal, and people of all ages participate.  There are the dwindling numbers of veterans who take part, with their medals on their jackets and coats.  There are also members of the armed forces of the Russian Federation who march on parade and down the avenues of Saint Petersburg.  This also always contains a contingent of military cadets from the army and naval academies; of whom some are only a little over 10 years of age.  Then there are groups of young folk, dressed in period uniforms of the Red Army. 

 



 



Re-enactors in Red Army and Navy Uniforms

 

The day had started off on a wet note.  It had been raining heavily.  So,  I decided to see the procession that was starting (near me) from Sovietskaya Street and would make its way past the victory obelisk in Ploschad Vosstaniya and onto Nevsky Prospekt.  Its final destination would be the Peter and Paul Fortress several kilometres away.  I walked passed the gathering of re-enactors, veterans, soldiers and civilians as I made my way to the area around the metro station.  This would give me a fairly good view of the parade which would start at 5 pm.  Just before the start it began to rain.  And when it rains here, it pours.  However, this did not dampen people's spirits and I can only describe the atmosphere around me as emotional - sombre and yet jubilant.  I looked at the ancient faces of the veterans and wondered about the pains they had gone through, the loss of friends and family.  This brought a tear rolling down my cheek.  I suppose a lot of tears were mixing with the rain that day. 

 

 



A car for some veterans.  Hero City of Leningrad is the sign on the building

Then the parade began.  At the vanguard of the procession were troops holding banners with the names of the various fronts (army groups) of the Great Patriotic War.  To their rear were the drummers and musicians.  I think the drums made the spectacle even more dramatic.  The deep booms echoed throughout the soaked streets.  Next came the veterans and the re-enactors, and then finally ordinary citizens of Saint Petersburg carrying placards with the pictures and names of the fallen.  Again, very emotional.  But, what struck me were the cheers coming from the crowd.  Every time a car full of veterans passed by a huge urrah! could be heard from the well-wishers. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, here is a video I made of the occasion:

 

 

 

 С Днём Победы! = Happy Victory Day!

 

Next year should be even bigger as it is the 70th Anniversary.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



 



Armed Forces of The Russian Federation

Next week is Victory Day on 9th May.  This happens every year to commemorate victory over Nazi Germany in The Great Patriotic War, as the Russians call the Soviet part of the Second World War.  Parades are held in cities; the largest being in Moscow.  However, my host city, Saint Petersburg, will hold theirs on Palace Square, outside the Hermitage Museum.  This I intend to see and take some video footage, as well as some photos which I'll post on this blog.

 



So, the purpose of VD is to remember those who served in the Red Army, in defence of the Motherland and the final westward assault on the Third Reich ending in May 1945.  As time passes, fewer and fewer veterans of that conflict are able to attend.  However, they are not forgotten.  The parade will consist of members of the modern armed forces of The Russian Federation, including the city's cadets.

Palace Square with St Isaac's Cathedral in the background

 

 

Female soldiers and cadets (above) Russian veterans (below)

 

 

 

Russian Forces Today

The modern Russian army, air force and navy may not be on the grand scale of the old Soviet armed forces, but it is still a large size with a huge amount of firepower.  Eyes are now looking at the Russian military as the crisis in eastern Ukraine continues.  Of course the question is: will they be used to intervene in Ukraine in the near future?  Whatever the answer, the facts are quite clear about the Russian military:  they are well-equipped, have large numbers and have some of the best-trained and experienced special forces in the world.  A formidable foe for any army.

 

Russian Armed Forces (HD)

 

It is not uncommon to see young conscripts and cadets walking around the city in their uniforms.  I see them nearly everyday on the metro.  Some of the cadets attend a military school  I say school, because they are just schoolboys in military uniform.  When a young man reaches eighteen, if he is deemed physically and mentally fit, he is eligible to do a period of national service.  This can be delayed if the man enters university.  While thousands of young men avoid service each year (resulting in arrests), tens of thousands are fed into the ranks of the Russian military. 

 

 

 

Source:   http://www.ft.com

 

As you can see by the numbers above, it's a military that dwarfs my own country's numbers. 

 

The Army: Сухопутные войска Российской Федерации

 

    

 

Army uniform insignia with tricolour (above) VDV paratroopers (below)

 VDV: Воздушно-десантные войска - Air-Land-Forces

 

Special Forces - Speznaz

 

The first time I had heard of Speznaz (special forces) was a film from the 80s starring Dolph Lundgren.  It was called 'Red Scorpion' They were portrayed as the Soviet elite.  Today Russia's Speznaz can be found in the army and the Ministry of Interior/FSB.  GRU Speznaz are attached to the intelligence wing of the army - ГРУ ГШ) or Glavnoye Razvedyvatel'noye Upravleniye Generalnovo Shtaba (Главное Разведывательное Управление Генерального Штаба) meaning Main Intelligence Directorate of the General Staff.  During the last decade or so, Speznaz have been used to fight against separatists in the Caucuses  - most notably in Chechnya and Dagestan.

 

 



 GRU Speznaz:  Russia's elite

  

 

The Airforce:  Военно-воздушные cилы России

 

 

 

 

MiGs and Sukhoi fast jets make up the fighter wings of the Russian Air Force.  The picture above is the new MiG 35 multirole fighter which was derived from the very capable and agile MiG 29 Fulcrum.  It first flew in 2007.

 

The iconic Hind attack helicopter has been revamped into the new Mi-35:

 

 

The Kamov Ka-50 below: 

 

 

 

The Navy:  Военно-морской Флот Российской Федерации (ВМФ России)

 

 

 

 

 

And finally... Russian Navy hovercraft lands on a crowded beach:

 

 

 



The Ukraine and Crimea

It has been on my mind for several months now.  When the Russians seized Crimea I thought this at the very least could trigger a new Cold War between Russia and NATO countries.  At the very worst it could trigger a Third World War - and we know how that would end? 

I'm not going to repeat what has already been reported about the on-going tension between my host country of Russia and it's neighbour Ukraine (and the west).  But, it has got me worried.  Now, at the best of times I am a natural worrier.  If there was nothing to worry about, I would still worry  - about the fact there was nothing to worry about.  So, when there was talk about the crises escalating into a possible military conflict in the region, I thought...oh shit, we might be at war very soon!  I thought and worried some more  Okay, if the proverbial hits the fan and I have to leave Russia, where am I going to go?  The airports may be closed or overcrowded with EU nationals clambering to escape the Federation.  Well, I am in Saint Petersburg, and that means there's always a land route to Finland.  I pictured myself getting on a coach to Helsinki, or if that was not viable, trudging across the border.

 



    

 

This would be a pretty cool way to cross the border  All I need now is a sleigh, some huskies and some snow!

 

 

 

Then there was a lull.  As you already know, Russia held a referendum in the Crimean peninsular, amidst an outcry of foul-play from the west and the new Ukrainian government.  In a short space of time Crimea was incorporated into The Russian Federation.  And now tensions are building up again.  Armed gunmen have seized police stations in the Donetsk region of Ukraine.  The Russian government have said that they would send in their special forces if the Ukrainian military try to act against them.  Claim and counter-claim from both sides.  This is politics and it is always the little man (the general public who just want to get on with their lives) who suffers.  The question is now:  will this lead to war?

 

 

 

 

I hope not.  A war between Russia and Ukraine would lead to a wider conflict and may be even nuclear war.  While the situation worsens and politicians on both sides fan the flames, they have forgotten that they are putting all of our lives in jeopardy.  I sincerely wish for a peaceful outcome to this crisis.  Both sides have something to offer, but please, for the sake of ordinary Russians, Ukrainians and the rest of the world, the politicians must de-escalate and stop playing with fire.  Nor, do I like the way that nationalists have taken this as an opportunity to voice their xenophobia - be they Russian, Ukrainian, or whoever.  As a Briton living in Russia, I think it is sad that neighbours, who have so much in common, are now at logger-heads.  Who's to blame?  Politicians with their own agenda and a minority of bigots in both countries.  This reminds me of the conflict in Northern Ireland with idiots on both sides of the divide stirring up hatred.  It has to stop.  I've heard and read some unsavoury comments - anti-Russian and anti-Ukrainian, in the last few weeks.  Most people, as I've already said, want to live in peace.  For those who want a fight, you are risking a lot - and for what?

 

As John Lennon once sang:  

 

In the meantime, I'm going to carry on as normal, teaching my classes and enjoying the Russian spring.  I still want to be here tomorrow, and the day after that, and not on some evacuation flight, or thousands of metres into the stratosphere!

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 



 



 

Facts about Russia

Top Ten Factoids:

 

1. Russia covers one-seventh of the total land area of the world.

 

2. There are 2,000 libraries, 100 concert organisations, more than 80 theatres, 62 cinemas, 45 art galleries, 221 museums, and 80 nightclubs in St. Petersburg alone.

 

3. St. Petersburg is the host of up to 100 cultural and art festivals annually, at least 50 of which are international events.

 

4. Russia was the first nation to launch a man into space. (The USA was just the first nation to land a man on the moon.)



 

5. Ten percent of the income of the Russian government is from the sales of vodka.

 

6. A quarter of the world’s fresh water is contained in the lakes of Russia.

 

7. Klyuchevskaya Sopka, the world’s highest active volcano at a height of 4,750 metres (15,584 feet), is found in Russia.

 

8. The country is referred to as the “Lungs of Europe” because it has the biggest forest reserves in the world.

 

9. The Tsar Kolokol bell, the largest bell in the world with a height of 6.14 metres (20 feet) and a weight of 223 tons, is inside the Kremlin of Moscow.

 

10. Women outnumber men in Russia by approximately 10 million.

 

 

Source:  http://www.travelingeast.com/europe/russia/ten-interesting-facts-about-russia/

 

 



The Dark Side:

1. Alcohol - in excess of 23,000 people in Russia die every year as a consequence—and alcohol-related murder, assaults, and suicides are all among the highest in the world. Life expectancy is lower than in many developing countries, with the average man expected to live the tender age of sixty-three.

 

2. Second World War - the Soviets may have lost in excess of thirty million people, including civilians—around fourteen percent of their entire population. In the Battle of Stalingrad alone, it is believed that more Soviets died than the United States lost during the whole war.

 

 

3. Serial killers - While the United States is definitely the serial killer capital of the world, Russia has also had its fair share. The country’s serial killers are often given lurid nicknames, such as “The Butcher of Rostov”, “Raskolnikov in a skirt”, and “The Chessboard Killer” (so-named because he confessed to wanting to kill sixty-four people, equal to the number of squares on a chessboard).

 

4. Krokodil - Russia is already the world’s leading importer of heroin, but in recent years, an even more insidious opiate has been hitting the streets. Easily derived from over-the-counter codeine drugs, krokodill is eight to ten times more potent than morphine. It is so-named because it leaves addicts with scaly, reptilian skin.

 

 

Source:  http://listverse.com/2013/06/15/10-fascinating-facts-about-russia/

 

  

 

 



What's Russia like?

 

Russian Stereotypes

 



Ok comrades.  When you think of Russia, what do you really picture?  Apart from a leggy blonde playing a balalaika and icons of the Soviet Era, what do you think of?  Vodka, those Russian dolls, Vladimir Putin, Lenin, KGB, snow....lots of snow?  And bears too? 

 

May be you thought of some of these...

 

Some common stereotypes of Russia:   Every Russian drinks a lot of vodka Bears wander the streets of Russian cities and towns.    It's dangerous in Russia because of the mafia    It's an underdeveloped and backward country There's snow on the ground all year round Russians are rude and grumpy It's drab and grey Babushkas

 Yes, there is a lot of vodka in Russia (some good, some bad) and relatively cheap, but I have not seen the kind of vodka-drinking that I was half-expecting.  My Russian students tell me that in Saint Petersburg at least, you don't see the same kind of drunkenness from excessive vodka drinking than you would in smaller towns and villages.  We're metropolitan, sophisticated and have to work in the morning - they assure me. 

As for bears - haven't seen one bear yet.  They're all hibernating in Siberia, apparently.

The Russian Mafia is so 1990s, like other misconceptions of present-day Russia.  While they do exist, they are not lurking around every street corner and have no impact on most people's lives.  Before I left England I was asked whether I was afraid I might get shot (in a mafia street shoot-out!).  Er, no!  I am glad to say that I have heard no gunshots...so far.

Russia, a backward and underdeveloped country?!  Nope.  The public transport is reasonable and cheap.  I'll take the Saint Petersburg Metro over the London Underground any day!  Here the trains run on time and it is pretty cheap, compared to a creaking Tube network, which is inefficient, overcrowded and over-priced.  But one thing that really is apparent here:  Russians do value education a great deal. I have met many graduates in my classes who hold at least two degrees.  And it's not uncommon for parents to send their children to afterschool clubs and private tuition to enhance their education and social skills.  

Snow on the ground all year round?  Winter is long and dark here.  That is true.  But there are the other seasons as well.  And I have been told that when summer finally arrives it's usually brief, but very warm.  

Russians are rude and grumpy?  This may seem the case when it comes to walking along the street and seeing all those frowning faces.  And in the Metro and in shops too.  However, once inside, and once you have been introduced, there are smiles all around.  I am happy to report that I have had many a giggle with St Petersburg folk.  I even saw a Russian policeman and policewoman larking around in the Metro, laughing and smiling together...flirting I imagine. 

Drab and grey in Mother Russia?  Yes, some of it is.  You can blame Soviet architects for some of it.  However, I don't think you can level that at a city like Saint Petersburg with it's colourful buildings and such treasures as The Hermitage.  The weather certainly can be drab though. 

The stereotypical chubby grandmother - the babushka - does not apply to all elderly females in Russia, but they do exist.  Just watch as they steamroll their way through queues, or simply barge  onto the train via your personal space.  A force to be reckoned with -  (Grand)mother Russia!

 

First Impressions

 

Russia does seem to be a country of contradictions.  I expected that it would be quite different from my own country, but not exactly in the way I had envisaged.  On the one hand Russian people can appear to be as cold as their weather, yet are often friendly and warm-hearted.  It's just that smiling in public is frowned upon.  If you are ever caught smiling on the street, don't be surprised if you receive a disapproving look.  They will either assume you are mad, insincere or both,  Smiling is reserved for friends, family, colleagues and acquaintances.

 

And as for customer service, it is not like the 'service with a smile' you may be used to back at home.  If a checkout lady smiles in your direction, then just don't take it for granted and just accept it as a good day.  But never confuse the lack of emotion for shoddy service. You will most likely receive an impeccable service; but just not with smiling involved.

 

 

 

So, what is Russia really like? 

 

It is different.  Some of those differences will be a pleasant surprise.  Others will be points of frustration.  For example, if you do want to post anything, be prepared for a chunk of time to elapse before your letter or package reaches its destination.  A letter by airmail from Saint Petersburg to the UK will take in the region of 4 to 6 weeks.  And, if you are a fan of queuing, then be prepared for disappointment.  If there is a queue waiting for the Metro train, or you are waiting in line in a shop, don't get upset when someone seizes upon an opportunity to get ahead of you.  Of course, it's your fault because you left a little gap.  You didn't notice it, but the next guy did.

At the time of writing this I am still trying to workout what Russia is really like  I think it's hard to explain, unless you have lived here yourself.  Will I know the answer in six months?  Probably not. 

 

 

 

 

 

 



Goodbye England! Hello Russia!

 

Goodbye Manchester!

 

"If you want to teach English abroad, you will need a CELTA qualification." 

I was told this time and time again.  I thought my PGCE teaching qualification was good enough, especially with over nine years of teaching children and adults.  It wasn't.  Again and again I was either ignored or told that I needed that most golden key to unlock those expatriate doors: a CELTA.  And CELTAs don't come cheap.  When the time came to book my place on a part-time course (at ELC Manchester Academy of English), the fee was £1,350.  And, no regrets.  It was worth every single penny!  After feeling a little jaded, having taught secondary school children history, and adult male prisoners basic maths and English, this rekindled my passion for teaching.  During those 16 weeks between February and May 2013, I learnt new teaching techniques and it felt reenergising in an odd way.  I say odd, because I attended those 3 hour plus classes and teaching sessions (thrice-weekly) after a full day's work at the prison (and no, I won't mention which one!) ; and I'd be lying to you if I said it wasn't knackering.  I would arrive home around ten at night, absolutely exhausted, and yet rather satisfied. 

May - July 2013: Decisions and Applications

One of the most frequent questions my students ask me is:  Why Russia?

I had considered Russia before, but after the course I did consider other countries.  Firstly, there was China.  A former colleague from the prison suggested that I should apply to the company he had been working for.  I applied, I was interviewed on Skype, and after many enquiring emails as to whether they had made a decision or not, with no reply, I decided to look elsewhere.  Then there was the idea of going to Turkey, especially Istanbul.  Now there was an interesting location and I loved the idea of living in such a colourful and historic city.  I applied through an agency (on tefl.com) and again, I was interviewed on Skype.  It sounded very interesting and the initial interview (rather like a q & a session than an actual interview, made me think that I would end up teaching Turkish youngsters English.  However, in the meantime, my attention shifted to an advert for a native English-speaking teacher to teach in Saint Petersburg, Russia.  I gave it some thought.  I had always wanted to visit the country and the idea of living in this particular historic city, with plenty of the finest vodka known to mankind, and being surrounded by attractive Russian ladies, prompted me to apply.  Very soon I had the reply I had hoped for: an interview.  And as you've already guessed, the interview went very well indeed.  A job offer came through ten days later and I accepted immediately.  That really was a happy day!  Now for the escape plan...Hang on!  No!  First things first - contracts and then visas, and then the ticket....and letter of resignation (oh, how I relished that!  But, I will tell you more about that sweet taste later).

August - September 2013:  Contract, Visa & Ticket

To say that the following weeks were stressful is an understatement.  Waiting for the contract to arrive was painful.  And once that arrived (finally!), there was the letter of invitation from my new employer to wait for.  Without these documents, I would not be able to get a Russian visa.  That wasn't the end of the paperwork.  There was the HIV/AIDS test to be done, with a supporting letter to say that I am clear.  It's another requirement.  Once I had all the necessary documentation, passport photos and fee, I could then fill in my visa application online, print it out, sign and send off.  It took 4 hours! 

Here's a link for the agency who processed my Russian visa - a very swift and most satisfactory service:

http://www.visitrussia.org.uk/

I could not wait any longer.  I booked my flight (with Finnair - the cheapest one-way ticket was £207 from Manchester Airport).  On the same day, I wrote my letter of resignation.  Now that was such a beautiful feeling typing those words, signing it with my best disposable fountain pen; but the best moment was handing it to my line-manager.  Nice!

The visa arrived just 6 days before my flight.

27th September:  Manc - SPb

The day had finally arrived.  No more Bolton.  No more Manchester, Salford or BBC Breakfast News.  It was a case, and a 24 kg case at that, of getting a taxi to the railway station and catching the train from Bolton to Manchester with enough time to check-in, browse the shops and drink a big, fat cappuccino in the waiting area.



 

 

First stop:  Helsinki Airport.  Not after a four and a half hour journey over England, the North Sea, Denmark and Sweden.

 A two hour wait later and it's onboard a turboprop humming us away over the Gulf of Finland to Saint Petersburg.  That just took one hour.

And so I arrived in Russia.  There were the grim border guards in Pulkovo Airport.  Cool!  It's what I had expected.  Echoes of the Soviet past still linger.  Coming out of arrivals I was met by a member of staff from the language school and drove straight into the heart of the city.  At this point, I was both nervous and excited.  I was now in a country I hadn't even visited before, yet I had signed a contract for a whole academic year.  I didn't know anyone in the city and I only knew a few words of Russian. 

It's always during the first night you look up at the ceiling and wonder:  have I made the right choice?  And it dawns on you that you are a long way from home, from your friends, from all the things familiar to you. 

The first night was lonely, but after such a long day of travelling, I soon fell asleep.  Bye England!

 

 

Welcome to Russia!