The Ukraine and Crimea

It has been on my mind for several months now.  When the Russians seized Crimea I thought this at the very least could trigger a new Cold War between Russia and NATO countries.  At the very worst it could trigger a Third World War - and we know how that would end? 

I'm not going to repeat what has already been reported about the on-going tension between my host country of Russia and it's neighbour Ukraine (and the west).  But, it has got me worried.  Now, at the best of times I am a natural worrier.  If there was nothing to worry about, I would still worry  - about the fact there was nothing to worry about.  So, when there was talk about the crises escalating into a possible military conflict in the region, I thought...oh shit, we might be at war very soon!  I thought and worried some more  Okay, if the proverbial hits the fan and I have to leave Russia, where am I going to go?  The airports may be closed or overcrowded with EU nationals clambering to escape the Federation.  Well, I am in Saint Petersburg, and that means there's always a land route to Finland.  I pictured myself getting on a coach to Helsinki, or if that was not viable, trudging across the border.

 



    

 

This would be a pretty cool way to cross the border  All I need now is a sleigh, some huskies and some snow!

 

 

 

Then there was a lull.  As you already know, Russia held a referendum in the Crimean peninsular, amidst an outcry of foul-play from the west and the new Ukrainian government.  In a short space of time Crimea was incorporated into The Russian Federation.  And now tensions are building up again.  Armed gunmen have seized police stations in the Donetsk region of Ukraine.  The Russian government have said that they would send in their special forces if the Ukrainian military try to act against them.  Claim and counter-claim from both sides.  This is politics and it is always the little man (the general public who just want to get on with their lives) who suffers.  The question is now:  will this lead to war?

 

 

 

 

I hope not.  A war between Russia and Ukraine would lead to a wider conflict and may be even nuclear war.  While the situation worsens and politicians on both sides fan the flames, they have forgotten that they are putting all of our lives in jeopardy.  I sincerely wish for a peaceful outcome to this crisis.  Both sides have something to offer, but please, for the sake of ordinary Russians, Ukrainians and the rest of the world, the politicians must de-escalate and stop playing with fire.  Nor, do I like the way that nationalists have taken this as an opportunity to voice their xenophobia - be they Russian, Ukrainian, or whoever.  As a Briton living in Russia, I think it is sad that neighbours, who have so much in common, are now at logger-heads.  Who's to blame?  Politicians with their own agenda and a minority of bigots in both countries.  This reminds me of the conflict in Northern Ireland with idiots on both sides of the divide stirring up hatred.  It has to stop.  I've heard and read some unsavoury comments - anti-Russian and anti-Ukrainian, in the last few weeks.  Most people, as I've already said, want to live in peace.  For those who want a fight, you are risking a lot - and for what?

 

As John Lennon once sang:  

 

In the meantime, I'm going to carry on as normal, teaching my classes and enjoying the Russian spring.  I still want to be here tomorrow, and the day after that, and not on some evacuation flight, or thousands of metres into the stratosphere!

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 



 



 

Ice, snow and Sochi

Winter Arrives

The first snow arrived on 27th November.  For the last several months we have had varying degrees of snowfall.  Due to its maritime climate and its urban micro-climate (I used to teach all of this stuff when I taught geography), Saint Petersburg doesn't experience the same kind of harsh conditions like Moscow, or even the countryside in the Leningrad District.  Not long after the first proper snowfall, the temperature began to plummet.  When it reached -8 degrees Celsius, I exclaimed to various people how cold I felt.  My Australian flatmate agreed.  In fact, he felt it worse than me.  As for my Russian colleagues and students, they brushed it off as being a rather mild start to the winter.  "Just wait until February" they said.  "It will get down to minus twenty five at least."  At the time of writing this, February has already passed, and it never got below minus twenty one.  Still bloody cold though!

First snowfall in St Petersburg - view from my window

Trudging through the snow carefully so as not to slip on the ice below, I could feel the icy wind on my cheeks.  It felt like my face was being eaten by the air (with a slight burning sensation).  I was grateful to have my new beanie hat on.  This weather is really not good for bald men like myself.  And the snood around my neck kept the cold out further.  But, my boots were really suffering.  I had previously taken advice about applying a water-proofing spray to them, however, the mixture of the salt and water would always leave a white deposit on the surface of the leather.  "The Russian winter will eat your boots" said one student.  How true!  Face and boots, both devoured by the weather. 

By the way, if you do come to Russia in the wintertime, do buy some of that spray.  It will prolong the life of your footwear.  And make sure you spray it onto your shoes or boots outside, or at least with the windows wide open, if you apply it indoors.  And it reeks!

Here's a little minute-long video I shot on the way to work.  This is around Ploschad Vosstaniya, just near the metro station, as already mentioned in an earlier post:

 

 

 

 

Traditional Russian winter headgear - The Shapka Ushanka (шапка-ушанка):

 

 

 

шапка-ушанка

 

The 2014 Winter Olympics - Sochi 

 



Years of preparation, marketing and hype later The Winter Olympics finally arrived in Russia.  Although I had no plans on travelling all the way south to Sochi, I was kind of looking forward to it.  I had this idea of getting addicted to watching the skiing and the biathlon and feeling the spirit of the games.  Unfortunately, it didn't turn out that way.  I watched the ceremony and was impressed by the spectacle.  I liked the fact that the British team wore shapka-ushanka headwear, and how I laughed at the American and German teams' gaudy designs.  The intention was there - yes, I will follow it properly this time.  I am in the host country afterall.   However, my timetable clashed with the events I wanted to follow and I soon lost interest.  Oh well. 

   



 

He also looks familiar


But wait....here comes The Empire!



          

 



The good, the bad and the downright crazy! (Russian videos)

Here is a small collection of the mad, bad and crazy videos that come from Russia:


1.  Dash Cams

Russian dashboard camera video uploads are everywhere on the internet.  The reason for this is connected with insurance claims and a safeguard against police corruption.  Such footage includes close-calls, crashes, nutty drivers, weird payloads, road-rage and the famous Chelyabinsk meteor explosion.  According to Wikipedia, the Russians have added some new words to their language based on this phenomenon, including железобетонное очко (zhelezobetonnoye ochko) – Anus of Reinforced Concrete (i.e. one whose anus is made of reinforced concrete, an honorific for an especially skilled driver reacting adequately to an emergency situation).

 

 

     

 

The Chelyabinsk meteor:

 

 

 

 

 

Road-rage:

 

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                   

                                                                                                                                                                                          



2.  Crazy Stunts

 

Just like the dash-cam craze, there have been many videos posted to the internet that show average Russians performing stunts (something akin to Jackass in style) which can only be described as downright crazy and dangerous.  But, they are fun to watch!

 

This video contains a mixture of dash-cam and stunt footage:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3.  The Russian Armed Forces

 

 

 

Of course the Russian Armed Forces mean serious business, but they are not always so serious.

 

 

   

 

 

 

 







 

SpongeBob Square Paaaaants!

 

 

 

4.  Cats

 

Russians love cats.  Fact.  As you can see from these clips, Russian cat videos are very popular.

 

 





 

He looks familiar

 

 

 

 

5.  Crazy Dancing

 

Vodka plus the internet equals The Harlem Shake:

 

 

 

These didn't have vodka - may be some catnip instead

 

 

 

...or beer.

 

 

And finally, a not-so-crazy video, but you can dance to this after a few vodkas:  Kalinka

 

 

 



Christmas and New Year - Russian Style

Christmas is just not the same in Russia.  I know that Christmas is celebrated in different ways around the globe, but in Russia, it barely features.  For Orthodox Christians, it is truly a religious celebration and is held on 7th January, according to the Orthodox calendar.  For the majority of Russians, who aren't religious, New Year's is the main holiday of the season.  And how do Russians celebrate New Year's?  Of course, with a sit-down meal with the family.  Okay, that sounds familiar, but what do they eat?  Turkey?  Chicken?  No!  How about some juicy roast pork instead?  Definitely not!  Hmm, okay.  Are they like their Slavic brethren in the Czech Republic and opt for carp with a potato salad?  Nope - wrong again!  So, what do the Russians eat on Новый Год  (New Year's)?  Olivier salad (Салат Оливье) - that's what!  It surpised me, because I imagined that it would be at least something meaty or fishy.

Russian Olivier salad



Here's a link for a meat version of Olivier Salad:

http://www.ruscuisine.com/recipes/appetizers/meat/n--50

But, when it comes to Christmas and New Year in Russia, there is at least one familiar face (apart from baby Jesus) - Santa Claus!  Well, he looks like Santa, and does similar things that our red and white beardy friend does.  It's just that he is called Father Frost  - Дед Мороз  - pronounced Ded Moroz (a bit like Dead Morose...yeah).  And he arrives on his sleigh with his granddaughter Снегурочка  - Snegurochka, which means The Snow Maiden.  And together, the duo hand out presents. 




As far as my Christmas and New Year went, it was pretty tame.  There was the company Christmas party with a 'Secret Santa.'  Thank you to whoever gave me some lovely gifts, including a copy of The Master and Margarita, some death metal cds, chocolates and a pimp hat and bling...less said about that the better.  And where was the pimp stick?  I think Ded Moroz kept that for himself!  Biatch!  And my flatmates and I had a few guests round on 25th December for some traditional Anglo-American Christmas food.  The full works, including brussel sprouts.  Yummy!

Sightseeing in Saint Petersburg

The Mariinsky Theatre

Before I came to Russia I made a list of places I wanted to visit and the things I wanted to do.  Going to the ballet, the opera and a classical concert were on my list.  In November I had a chance to go and see the opera Prince Igor at the famous and grand Mariinsky Theatre.  I had never been to an opera before, and I had never heard of this particular opera either.  I soon learnt from the colleague, who had secured the tickets (at a very reasonable price of 1,000 roubles each (£20)), that it was composed by Borodin, and centred on the story of Russian Prince Igor who fought against the invading Polovtsian tribes in 1185. I did a little further research to find out more.



  

Top: My view from the balcony.  Not the greatest of pictures! Bottom:  A much better picture of the interior.

 

 

We arrived in good time that evening, and after leaving our coats and bags in the cloakroom, we eventually found our seats just above the Imperial Box.  Although the seats were very basic, I was rather overwhelmed by the grandeur of the interior.  The ornamentation, the lighting and the atmosphere.  I looked around at the other theatre-goers.  Most wore smart-casual and I did spot a few who were wearing their finest.  Some had the opera glasses in their hands.  And the performance started:  absolutely electrifying!  One of the first things I noticed were the English subtitles displayed on a rectangular screen above the stage.  At least now I could understand what they were singing about.  And the sound, the costumes, and especially the music from the orchestra were astounding.  This is what I had hoped it would be like.  In fact, it went beyond my expectations.  But, there was just one little thing that marred the experience:  other people nearby, or more precisely, their mobile phones.  The same ringtone - three times in the first fifteen minutes!

 

During the break we went down to the theatre's café and bought some coffee (and slipped some brandy into it) and a couple slices of bread with red caviar on top.  Delicious!  And the brandy worked its magic too.

 

Overall, a most pleasant experience and I would recommend that any visit to the city should include a stop at this particular glorious theatre.

 

Further information:   http://www.mariinsky.ru/en      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prince_Igor

 

                                                                                   Polovstian Dances

 

 

 

The Hermitage

 

Two hours is never enough and neither would a whole day suffice.  The State Hermitage Museum is colossal.   The museum  consists of the Winter Palace, the former state residence of the Russian emperors, the buildings of the Small, Old (Great) and New Hermitages, the Hermitage Theatre and the Auxiliary House.  It contains works of art from all over the world, including pieces by Leonardo Di Vinci.  For most visitors to Saint Petersburg The Hermitage is a must.

 

In the two hours I spent at The Hermitage, I visited the Italian Rooms, looked at some works by Dutch and Belgian masters and gorped at the golden peacock clock.  The sheer scale of the place is almost unimaginable.  When not appreciating the masses of fine art, sculptures and other treasures, you are walking through corridor after corridor, occasionally going up and down some of the finest stairs you will ever tread.  On that very cold and icy day before Christmas, there was also an ice-sculpture competition being held in the courtyard.

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

Further information:  http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/html_En/index.html

 

 



 

 

Meanwhile in Russia......

 

 

 

 

Facts about Russia

Top Ten Factoids:

 

1. Russia covers one-seventh of the total land area of the world.

 

2. There are 2,000 libraries, 100 concert organisations, more than 80 theatres, 62 cinemas, 45 art galleries, 221 museums, and 80 nightclubs in St. Petersburg alone.

 

3. St. Petersburg is the host of up to 100 cultural and art festivals annually, at least 50 of which are international events.

 

4. Russia was the first nation to launch a man into space. (The USA was just the first nation to land a man on the moon.)



 

5. Ten percent of the income of the Russian government is from the sales of vodka.

 

6. A quarter of the world’s fresh water is contained in the lakes of Russia.

 

7. Klyuchevskaya Sopka, the world’s highest active volcano at a height of 4,750 metres (15,584 feet), is found in Russia.

 

8. The country is referred to as the “Lungs of Europe” because it has the biggest forest reserves in the world.

 

9. The Tsar Kolokol bell, the largest bell in the world with a height of 6.14 metres (20 feet) and a weight of 223 tons, is inside the Kremlin of Moscow.

 

10. Women outnumber men in Russia by approximately 10 million.

 

 

Source:  http://www.travelingeast.com/europe/russia/ten-interesting-facts-about-russia/

 

 



The Dark Side:

1. Alcohol - in excess of 23,000 people in Russia die every year as a consequence—and alcohol-related murder, assaults, and suicides are all among the highest in the world. Life expectancy is lower than in many developing countries, with the average man expected to live the tender age of sixty-three.

 

2. Second World War - the Soviets may have lost in excess of thirty million people, including civilians—around fourteen percent of their entire population. In the Battle of Stalingrad alone, it is believed that more Soviets died than the United States lost during the whole war.

 

 

3. Serial killers - While the United States is definitely the serial killer capital of the world, Russia has also had its fair share. The country’s serial killers are often given lurid nicknames, such as “The Butcher of Rostov”, “Raskolnikov in a skirt”, and “The Chessboard Killer” (so-named because he confessed to wanting to kill sixty-four people, equal to the number of squares on a chessboard).

 

4. Krokodil - Russia is already the world’s leading importer of heroin, but in recent years, an even more insidious opiate has been hitting the streets. Easily derived from over-the-counter codeine drugs, krokodill is eight to ten times more potent than morphine. It is so-named because it leaves addicts with scaly, reptilian skin.

 

 

Source:  http://listverse.com/2013/06/15/10-fascinating-facts-about-russia/

 

  

 

 



Getting Started

 

September - October 2013:

Ploschad Vostanniya (Uprising Square) Obelisk, off Nevsky Prospekt

The morning after my arrival I was told to report to the office.  There I was given my schedule for the forthcoming week, and so on my first full day in Saint Petersburg, I was already preparing for my first lessons.  In the staffroom I introduced myself to some of the other teachers.  I did wonder at one point if I was the oldest teacher.  I'm approaching my late thirties and the vast majority of EFL teachers are recent graduates from universities in their respective home countries.  Not that it bothers me in the slightest - I was just thinking whether I was the only one the wrong side of 35.  It later turns out this is not the case. There are other teachers in their forties and fifties. Where I am in a definite minority is my nationality.  There are just two other Britons in the company:  one fresh graduate from the south-west of England and one from Belfast in Northern Ireland.  The bulk of the teaching staff are Russian (who tend to teach students at Beginner and Elementary levels) and American.  The rest are from South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. 



Ploschad Vosstaniya Metro Station

During the afternoon I was taken by one of the administration staff to a nearby mobile phone shop where I bought a Russian SIM card.  Walking along the street I noticed how quickly the weather can change from blue skies to a sudden darkening and a flash downpour of rain.  This is typical in early Autumn  - so I'm told by my new colleague. And thus was the pattern walking up and down the streets exploring and trying to find a supermarket.  Sunshine, rain and back again.

First Classes

As scheduled, I met my first class on the Monday afternoon.  I was nervous.  Nerves before and at the start of a lesson don't disappear because you are experienced.  I admit I still feel nervous when meeting any class for the first time.  However, I think this is good thing.  Mainly because I believe that it is a sign that you are not complacent and a teacher can tap into that initial wave of nervous energy and make use of it.  And so my introduction began: I asked my new students to write down some questions that they would like to ask each other and a couple of questions they would like to ask me.  As an icebreaker it worked rather well.  And what kind of questions did they and the next class ask me:  Why Russia?  Why did you choose to come to Russia?  How long have you been here?  Do you like Saint Petersburg?  Are you married? - (hello!)

Further introductions with more classes went along the same lines.  They were genuinely curious as to why an Englishman had chosen to live in Russia and all were genuinely friendly.  Good introductions are very important.  Get your new students on side and feeling relaxed and it's a sure thing that this will help to create a good atmosphere in your lessons.


                                                                                  

                                                          Getting around the city  

The Saint Petersburg Metro is the deepest underground in Europe at over 50 m deep.

 

My preferred method of transport in the city is the city's underground, Metro.   At just 950 Roubles (a little under £20 - enough for a month) for 40 journeys anywhere on the network, it's good value for money.  What's more impressive is how frequent and punctual the services are.  The only drawbacks are the number of people during rush-hour, the amazing lack of spatial-awareness by some folk, and the tireless army of bongo-players who board the train hoping that passengers will give them some money for their awful noise.  I make sure my earphones are in and I'm staring at the door.  I can't hear them and I can't see them.  I'm not paying them!

 



 'The UFO' Gorkovskaya Station

 

Discovering new things:

It is only polite, when in another country, to sample the food and drink.  In this case - beer, vodka and (cheap) caviar.

 

As you would imagine, in the land of vodka there are many brands to choose from.  But, beware!  The cheaper the bottle, the greater the hangover.  After drinking this stuff, it took three days for my internal organs to recover!

 

 





 

When choosing beer, please note that if a can costs around 50 Roubles (£1), it is most likely that it was brewed under licence in Russia.  Imported beers, such as Lapin Kulta from Finland, will cost three times as much.  As the quality and taste of Russian beer is rather bland, sometimes paying that little bit extra is worth it.

 

There's no escape from Lenin!

Another thing you will notice soon after arriving in Russia are that the signs of the Soviet Era are everywhere.  Look carefully at some of the buildings in the city and you will see the odd Soviet star, a hammer and sickle, or images of Lenin.

 

And the Russians know that Soviet-Chic sells. Books, mugs, Russian dolls, even postcards bare the old leaders' faces.  I ended up buying a set of Stalin postcards.  Not because I have some kind of Stalin fetish, but rather for the intriguing social-realism artwork! Honest.