Sightseeing in Saint Petersburg

The Mariinsky Theatre

Before I came to Russia I made a list of places I wanted to visit and the things I wanted to do.  Going to the ballet, the opera and a classical concert were on my list.  In November I had a chance to go and see the opera Prince Igor at the famous and grand Mariinsky Theatre.  I had never been to an opera before, and I had never heard of this particular opera either.  I soon learnt from the colleague, who had secured the tickets (at a very reasonable price of 1,000 roubles each (£20)), that it was composed by Borodin, and centred on the story of Russian Prince Igor who fought against the invading Polovtsian tribes in 1185. I did a little further research to find out more.



  

Top: My view from the balcony.  Not the greatest of pictures! Bottom:  A much better picture of the interior.

 

 

We arrived in good time that evening, and after leaving our coats and bags in the cloakroom, we eventually found our seats just above the Imperial Box.  Although the seats were very basic, I was rather overwhelmed by the grandeur of the interior.  The ornamentation, the lighting and the atmosphere.  I looked around at the other theatre-goers.  Most wore smart-casual and I did spot a few who were wearing their finest.  Some had the opera glasses in their hands.  And the performance started:  absolutely electrifying!  One of the first things I noticed were the English subtitles displayed on a rectangular screen above the stage.  At least now I could understand what they were singing about.  And the sound, the costumes, and especially the music from the orchestra were astounding.  This is what I had hoped it would be like.  In fact, it went beyond my expectations.  But, there was just one little thing that marred the experience:  other people nearby, or more precisely, their mobile phones.  The same ringtone - three times in the first fifteen minutes!

 

During the break we went down to the theatre's café and bought some coffee (and slipped some brandy into it) and a couple slices of bread with red caviar on top.  Delicious!  And the brandy worked its magic too.

 

Overall, a most pleasant experience and I would recommend that any visit to the city should include a stop at this particular glorious theatre.

 

Further information:   http://www.mariinsky.ru/en      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prince_Igor

 

                                                                                   Polovstian Dances

 

 

 

The Hermitage

 

Two hours is never enough and neither would a whole day suffice.  The State Hermitage Museum is colossal.   The museum  consists of the Winter Palace, the former state residence of the Russian emperors, the buildings of the Small, Old (Great) and New Hermitages, the Hermitage Theatre and the Auxiliary House.  It contains works of art from all over the world, including pieces by Leonardo Di Vinci.  For most visitors to Saint Petersburg The Hermitage is a must.

 

In the two hours I spent at The Hermitage, I visited the Italian Rooms, looked at some works by Dutch and Belgian masters and gorped at the golden peacock clock.  The sheer scale of the place is almost unimaginable.  When not appreciating the masses of fine art, sculptures and other treasures, you are walking through corridor after corridor, occasionally going up and down some of the finest stairs you will ever tread.  On that very cold and icy day before Christmas, there was also an ice-sculpture competition being held in the courtyard.

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

Further information:  http://www.hermitagemuseum.org/html_En/index.html

 

 



 

 

Meanwhile in Russia......

 

 

 

 

Facts about Russia

Top Ten Factoids:

 

1. Russia covers one-seventh of the total land area of the world.

 

2. There are 2,000 libraries, 100 concert organisations, more than 80 theatres, 62 cinemas, 45 art galleries, 221 museums, and 80 nightclubs in St. Petersburg alone.

 

3. St. Petersburg is the host of up to 100 cultural and art festivals annually, at least 50 of which are international events.

 

4. Russia was the first nation to launch a man into space. (The USA was just the first nation to land a man on the moon.)



 

5. Ten percent of the income of the Russian government is from the sales of vodka.

 

6. A quarter of the world’s fresh water is contained in the lakes of Russia.

 

7. Klyuchevskaya Sopka, the world’s highest active volcano at a height of 4,750 metres (15,584 feet), is found in Russia.

 

8. The country is referred to as the “Lungs of Europe” because it has the biggest forest reserves in the world.

 

9. The Tsar Kolokol bell, the largest bell in the world with a height of 6.14 metres (20 feet) and a weight of 223 tons, is inside the Kremlin of Moscow.

 

10. Women outnumber men in Russia by approximately 10 million.

 

 

Source:  http://www.travelingeast.com/europe/russia/ten-interesting-facts-about-russia/

 

 



The Dark Side:

1. Alcohol - in excess of 23,000 people in Russia die every year as a consequence—and alcohol-related murder, assaults, and suicides are all among the highest in the world. Life expectancy is lower than in many developing countries, with the average man expected to live the tender age of sixty-three.

 

2. Second World War - the Soviets may have lost in excess of thirty million people, including civilians—around fourteen percent of their entire population. In the Battle of Stalingrad alone, it is believed that more Soviets died than the United States lost during the whole war.

 

 

3. Serial killers - While the United States is definitely the serial killer capital of the world, Russia has also had its fair share. The country’s serial killers are often given lurid nicknames, such as “The Butcher of Rostov”, “Raskolnikov in a skirt”, and “The Chessboard Killer” (so-named because he confessed to wanting to kill sixty-four people, equal to the number of squares on a chessboard).

 

4. Krokodil - Russia is already the world’s leading importer of heroin, but in recent years, an even more insidious opiate has been hitting the streets. Easily derived from over-the-counter codeine drugs, krokodill is eight to ten times more potent than morphine. It is so-named because it leaves addicts with scaly, reptilian skin.

 

 

Source:  http://listverse.com/2013/06/15/10-fascinating-facts-about-russia/

 

  

 

 



Getting Started

 

September - October 2013:

Ploschad Vostanniya (Uprising Square) Obelisk, off Nevsky Prospekt

The morning after my arrival I was told to report to the office.  There I was given my schedule for the forthcoming week, and so on my first full day in Saint Petersburg, I was already preparing for my first lessons.  In the staffroom I introduced myself to some of the other teachers.  I did wonder at one point if I was the oldest teacher.  I'm approaching my late thirties and the vast majority of EFL teachers are recent graduates from universities in their respective home countries.  Not that it bothers me in the slightest - I was just thinking whether I was the only one the wrong side of 35.  It later turns out this is not the case. There are other teachers in their forties and fifties. Where I am in a definite minority is my nationality.  There are just two other Britons in the company:  one fresh graduate from the south-west of England and one from Belfast in Northern Ireland.  The bulk of the teaching staff are Russian (who tend to teach students at Beginner and Elementary levels) and American.  The rest are from South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. 



Ploschad Vosstaniya Metro Station

During the afternoon I was taken by one of the administration staff to a nearby mobile phone shop where I bought a Russian SIM card.  Walking along the street I noticed how quickly the weather can change from blue skies to a sudden darkening and a flash downpour of rain.  This is typical in early Autumn  - so I'm told by my new colleague. And thus was the pattern walking up and down the streets exploring and trying to find a supermarket.  Sunshine, rain and back again.

First Classes

As scheduled, I met my first class on the Monday afternoon.  I was nervous.  Nerves before and at the start of a lesson don't disappear because you are experienced.  I admit I still feel nervous when meeting any class for the first time.  However, I think this is good thing.  Mainly because I believe that it is a sign that you are not complacent and a teacher can tap into that initial wave of nervous energy and make use of it.  And so my introduction began: I asked my new students to write down some questions that they would like to ask each other and a couple of questions they would like to ask me.  As an icebreaker it worked rather well.  And what kind of questions did they and the next class ask me:  Why Russia?  Why did you choose to come to Russia?  How long have you been here?  Do you like Saint Petersburg?  Are you married? - (hello!)

Further introductions with more classes went along the same lines.  They were genuinely curious as to why an Englishman had chosen to live in Russia and all were genuinely friendly.  Good introductions are very important.  Get your new students on side and feeling relaxed and it's a sure thing that this will help to create a good atmosphere in your lessons.


                                                                                  

                                                          Getting around the city  

The Saint Petersburg Metro is the deepest underground in Europe at over 50 m deep.

 

My preferred method of transport in the city is the city's underground, Metro.   At just 950 Roubles (a little under £20 - enough for a month) for 40 journeys anywhere on the network, it's good value for money.  What's more impressive is how frequent and punctual the services are.  The only drawbacks are the number of people during rush-hour, the amazing lack of spatial-awareness by some folk, and the tireless army of bongo-players who board the train hoping that passengers will give them some money for their awful noise.  I make sure my earphones are in and I'm staring at the door.  I can't hear them and I can't see them.  I'm not paying them!

 



 'The UFO' Gorkovskaya Station

 

Discovering new things:

It is only polite, when in another country, to sample the food and drink.  In this case - beer, vodka and (cheap) caviar.

 

As you would imagine, in the land of vodka there are many brands to choose from.  But, beware!  The cheaper the bottle, the greater the hangover.  After drinking this stuff, it took three days for my internal organs to recover!

 

 





 

When choosing beer, please note that if a can costs around 50 Roubles (£1), it is most likely that it was brewed under licence in Russia.  Imported beers, such as Lapin Kulta from Finland, will cost three times as much.  As the quality and taste of Russian beer is rather bland, sometimes paying that little bit extra is worth it.

 

There's no escape from Lenin!

Another thing you will notice soon after arriving in Russia are that the signs of the Soviet Era are everywhere.  Look carefully at some of the buildings in the city and you will see the odd Soviet star, a hammer and sickle, or images of Lenin.

 

And the Russians know that Soviet-Chic sells. Books, mugs, Russian dolls, even postcards bare the old leaders' faces.  I ended up buying a set of Stalin postcards.  Not because I have some kind of Stalin fetish, but rather for the intriguing social-realism artwork! Honest.

 

                                     

What's Russia like?

 

Russian Stereotypes

 



Ok comrades.  When you think of Russia, what do you really picture?  Apart from a leggy blonde playing a balalaika and icons of the Soviet Era, what do you think of?  Vodka, those Russian dolls, Vladimir Putin, Lenin, KGB, snow....lots of snow?  And bears too? 

 

May be you thought of some of these...

 

Some common stereotypes of Russia:   Every Russian drinks a lot of vodka Bears wander the streets of Russian cities and towns.    It's dangerous in Russia because of the mafia    It's an underdeveloped and backward country There's snow on the ground all year round Russians are rude and grumpy It's drab and grey Babushkas

 Yes, there is a lot of vodka in Russia (some good, some bad) and relatively cheap, but I have not seen the kind of vodka-drinking that I was half-expecting.  My Russian students tell me that in Saint Petersburg at least, you don't see the same kind of drunkenness from excessive vodka drinking than you would in smaller towns and villages.  We're metropolitan, sophisticated and have to work in the morning - they assure me. 

As for bears - haven't seen one bear yet.  They're all hibernating in Siberia, apparently.

The Russian Mafia is so 1990s, like other misconceptions of present-day Russia.  While they do exist, they are not lurking around every street corner and have no impact on most people's lives.  Before I left England I was asked whether I was afraid I might get shot (in a mafia street shoot-out!).  Er, no!  I am glad to say that I have heard no gunshots...so far.

Russia, a backward and underdeveloped country?!  Nope.  The public transport is reasonable and cheap.  I'll take the Saint Petersburg Metro over the London Underground any day!  Here the trains run on time and it is pretty cheap, compared to a creaking Tube network, which is inefficient, overcrowded and over-priced.  But one thing that really is apparent here:  Russians do value education a great deal. I have met many graduates in my classes who hold at least two degrees.  And it's not uncommon for parents to send their children to afterschool clubs and private tuition to enhance their education and social skills.  

Snow on the ground all year round?  Winter is long and dark here.  That is true.  But there are the other seasons as well.  And I have been told that when summer finally arrives it's usually brief, but very warm.  

Russians are rude and grumpy?  This may seem the case when it comes to walking along the street and seeing all those frowning faces.  And in the Metro and in shops too.  However, once inside, and once you have been introduced, there are smiles all around.  I am happy to report that I have had many a giggle with St Petersburg folk.  I even saw a Russian policeman and policewoman larking around in the Metro, laughing and smiling together...flirting I imagine. 

Drab and grey in Mother Russia?  Yes, some of it is.  You can blame Soviet architects for some of it.  However, I don't think you can level that at a city like Saint Petersburg with it's colourful buildings and such treasures as The Hermitage.  The weather certainly can be drab though. 

The stereotypical chubby grandmother - the babushka - does not apply to all elderly females in Russia, but they do exist.  Just watch as they steamroll their way through queues, or simply barge  onto the train via your personal space.  A force to be reckoned with -  (Grand)mother Russia!

 

First Impressions

 

Russia does seem to be a country of contradictions.  I expected that it would be quite different from my own country, but not exactly in the way I had envisaged.  On the one hand Russian people can appear to be as cold as their weather, yet are often friendly and warm-hearted.  It's just that smiling in public is frowned upon.  If you are ever caught smiling on the street, don't be surprised if you receive a disapproving look.  They will either assume you are mad, insincere or both,  Smiling is reserved for friends, family, colleagues and acquaintances.

 

And as for customer service, it is not like the 'service with a smile' you may be used to back at home.  If a checkout lady smiles in your direction, then just don't take it for granted and just accept it as a good day.  But never confuse the lack of emotion for shoddy service. You will most likely receive an impeccable service; but just not with smiling involved.

 

 

 

So, what is Russia really like? 

 

It is different.  Some of those differences will be a pleasant surprise.  Others will be points of frustration.  For example, if you do want to post anything, be prepared for a chunk of time to elapse before your letter or package reaches its destination.  A letter by airmail from Saint Petersburg to the UK will take in the region of 4 to 6 weeks.  And, if you are a fan of queuing, then be prepared for disappointment.  If there is a queue waiting for the Metro train, or you are waiting in line in a shop, don't get upset when someone seizes upon an opportunity to get ahead of you.  Of course, it's your fault because you left a little gap.  You didn't notice it, but the next guy did.

At the time of writing this I am still trying to workout what Russia is really like  I think it's hard to explain, unless you have lived here yourself.  Will I know the answer in six months?  Probably not. 

 

 

 

 

 

 



Goodbye England! Hello Russia!

 

Goodbye Manchester!

 

"If you want to teach English abroad, you will need a CELTA qualification." 

I was told this time and time again.  I thought my PGCE teaching qualification was good enough, especially with over nine years of teaching children and adults.  It wasn't.  Again and again I was either ignored or told that I needed that most golden key to unlock those expatriate doors: a CELTA.  And CELTAs don't come cheap.  When the time came to book my place on a part-time course (at ELC Manchester Academy of English), the fee was £1,350.  And, no regrets.  It was worth every single penny!  After feeling a little jaded, having taught secondary school children history, and adult male prisoners basic maths and English, this rekindled my passion for teaching.  During those 16 weeks between February and May 2013, I learnt new teaching techniques and it felt reenergising in an odd way.  I say odd, because I attended those 3 hour plus classes and teaching sessions (thrice-weekly) after a full day's work at the prison (and no, I won't mention which one!) ; and I'd be lying to you if I said it wasn't knackering.  I would arrive home around ten at night, absolutely exhausted, and yet rather satisfied. 

May - July 2013: Decisions and Applications

One of the most frequent questions my students ask me is:  Why Russia?

I had considered Russia before, but after the course I did consider other countries.  Firstly, there was China.  A former colleague from the prison suggested that I should apply to the company he had been working for.  I applied, I was interviewed on Skype, and after many enquiring emails as to whether they had made a decision or not, with no reply, I decided to look elsewhere.  Then there was the idea of going to Turkey, especially Istanbul.  Now there was an interesting location and I loved the idea of living in such a colourful and historic city.  I applied through an agency (on tefl.com) and again, I was interviewed on Skype.  It sounded very interesting and the initial interview (rather like a q & a session than an actual interview, made me think that I would end up teaching Turkish youngsters English.  However, in the meantime, my attention shifted to an advert for a native English-speaking teacher to teach in Saint Petersburg, Russia.  I gave it some thought.  I had always wanted to visit the country and the idea of living in this particular historic city, with plenty of the finest vodka known to mankind, and being surrounded by attractive Russian ladies, prompted me to apply.  Very soon I had the reply I had hoped for: an interview.  And as you've already guessed, the interview went very well indeed.  A job offer came through ten days later and I accepted immediately.  That really was a happy day!  Now for the escape plan...Hang on!  No!  First things first - contracts and then visas, and then the ticket....and letter of resignation (oh, how I relished that!  But, I will tell you more about that sweet taste later).

August - September 2013:  Contract, Visa & Ticket

To say that the following weeks were stressful is an understatement.  Waiting for the contract to arrive was painful.  And once that arrived (finally!), there was the letter of invitation from my new employer to wait for.  Without these documents, I would not be able to get a Russian visa.  That wasn't the end of the paperwork.  There was the HIV/AIDS test to be done, with a supporting letter to say that I am clear.  It's another requirement.  Once I had all the necessary documentation, passport photos and fee, I could then fill in my visa application online, print it out, sign and send off.  It took 4 hours! 

Here's a link for the agency who processed my Russian visa - a very swift and most satisfactory service:

http://www.visitrussia.org.uk/

I could not wait any longer.  I booked my flight (with Finnair - the cheapest one-way ticket was £207 from Manchester Airport).  On the same day, I wrote my letter of resignation.  Now that was such a beautiful feeling typing those words, signing it with my best disposable fountain pen; but the best moment was handing it to my line-manager.  Nice!

The visa arrived just 6 days before my flight.

27th September:  Manc - SPb

The day had finally arrived.  No more Bolton.  No more Manchester, Salford or BBC Breakfast News.  It was a case, and a 24 kg case at that, of getting a taxi to the railway station and catching the train from Bolton to Manchester with enough time to check-in, browse the shops and drink a big, fat cappuccino in the waiting area.



 

 

First stop:  Helsinki Airport.  Not after a four and a half hour journey over England, the North Sea, Denmark and Sweden.

 A two hour wait later and it's onboard a turboprop humming us away over the Gulf of Finland to Saint Petersburg.  That just took one hour.

And so I arrived in Russia.  There were the grim border guards in Pulkovo Airport.  Cool!  It's what I had expected.  Echoes of the Soviet past still linger.  Coming out of arrivals I was met by a member of staff from the language school and drove straight into the heart of the city.  At this point, I was both nervous and excited.  I was now in a country I hadn't even visited before, yet I had signed a contract for a whole academic year.  I didn't know anyone in the city and I only knew a few words of Russian. 

It's always during the first night you look up at the ceiling and wonder:  have I made the right choice?  And it dawns on you that you are a long way from home, from your friends, from all the things familiar to you. 

The first night was lonely, but after such a long day of travelling, I soon fell asleep.  Bye England!

 

 

Welcome to Russia!